Isagweba: [Scepter]

This is Isagweba [Scepter]. it is made of Ugqonci (Oakwood), silver and incorporating leather strips. Isagweba is created to inspire the new with something of the old. Isagweba is given to the young man after the umgidi the coming of age ceremony. This is the tool given to the young man at the milestone (Ikrwala). This innovation ventures to celebrate and serve as an educational tool (see figure 1) for the young men of the Xhosa speaking people. I will be writing and drawing the messages on the silver plates that are incorporated in the leather and wood( see figure 2)  of which the final product will have written bling effect on the silver plates.

Figure 1- Rozani, B., (2019) concept idea of the scepter.

Figure 2 - Rozani, B., (2019) The scepter working progress.

conclusion.

I am very pleased with the body of work I have created. In the events of their creation and by the end of their construction, I had learned a few things about my culture, each of them has their own unique look but they share the same notion of sentimental value. I was able to learn new philosophies that I can use in the future as a Xhosa man. Completing this chapter and the body of work has allowed me to come up with many new ideas for future pieces, contemporary and wearable artwork pieces. In future, I would like to let the new philosophies that I have learned during my B-tech to automatically roll-over into my personal work, to enhance the development of my handmade jewellery business and the Oaknovations brand. In addition, writing about my jewellery has allowed me to channel my own personal views of the way culture and social standing are viewed by other people. By creating descriptive indicators of status; through the visuals of the Xhosa beadwork, that has helped me to elaborate and ask myself thorough questions about the impact I want my Xhosa bling contemporary jewellery to have, including the role I want it to play in the social standing of a young Xhosa man.

indlwana neck piece.

This is an Indlwana (birds nest) neckpiece made of silver an oval colored cabochon. This is a design that derives from the milestone (Inkwenkwe). On the notion of a boy at a stage where he has to look after his father’s livestock, he spends most of his time in the wild. The design process evolved to create a neckpiece that address the aspects of the boy finding a birds nest (see fig 1) and looking after it, the cabochon represent the birds' egg (see fig 2 )and the silver design represent the birds' nest that holds a birds egg ( see fig 3).

Fig 1 - Rozani, B., Birds nest.

fig 2 - Rozani. B., nest pendant in a birds nest.

fig 3 - Rozani. B., nest pendant with an oval dendrite.

Ikrwala.

This is a neckpiece made of colorful beads, and silver jump rings. The neckpiece is manufactured with the use of a simple stringing of colorful beads technique. The design process was focused on the milestone (Ikrwala) I wanted to create a neckpiece that addresses the aspects of that milestone, the beads tell a story of a new attitude to the new colorful world. This neckpiece is deeply rooted in the notion of a new beginning. Ikrwala is a stage where a young man, who has just come of age in the form of initiation has to start his life afresh. The intricate chain mail design portrays the hard work and ups and downs he will experience, the combination of colorful beads tells of a life of opportunities, success, responsibilities, and his family. 

fig 1- Rozani. B., Ikrwala neckpiece.

Ibhaso.

This is the Ibhaso bracelet made of sterling silver jump rings and a designed tube with melted balls. The tube is textured with a rough finish, The bracelet is manufactured with the use of a chain mail technique (see fig 1). The design process was focused on the milestone (unomgcana) I wanted to create a bracelet for the bride, the chain mail represents both families (see fig 1) and the rough tube design portrays the journey of marriage as the most hardest and exciting, time of her adult life.

fig 1 - Rozani. B., (2019) Ibhaso bracelet.

Isidanga: turquoise neck piece.

This is a ceremonial neckpiece made of blue turquoise beads, cow skin, and silver. The neckpiece is manufactured with the use of a simple stringing of beads technique. The design process was focused on the milestone (Unomgcana). I wanted to create a neckpiece that addresses the aspects of the ceremony under the milestone, the beads tell a story of a ritual done after before and after the cow is slaughtered at a ceremony. Beads are given to guests attending the ceremony, and after the sacrifice of a cow has been done, the beads are collected and this ceremonial neckpiece is manufactured from those beads.

Fig 1 - Rozani, B., (2019) Isidanga (ceremonial neck piece. 

Fig 2 - Rozani, B., (2019)  cow skin, and silver.

Umkhwetha Bracelet.

This is a bracelet made of sterling silver jump rings and a designed pierced plate incorporated with a leather strip. The bracelet is manufactured with the use of a simple designed chain mail technique (see fig 1). The design process was focused on the milestone (Umkhwetha). I wanted to create a bracelet that address the aspects of that milestone, the chain mail represent the short period of initiation (see fig 1) and the complex design of the pierced plate portrays the period as the most important time of his adult life (see fig 2).

 

fig 1 - Stirton. B., Xhosa initiates.

fig 2 - Rozani. B., (2019) Umkhwetha Bracelet.

Ikrwala Neck piece.

This is a neckpiece made in sterling silver jump rings and colored glass beads. The neckpiece is manufactured with the use of a complex designed chain mail technique. The design process was focused on the story of a Xhosa man at this milestone, (Ikrwala). I wanted to create a neckpiece that address the aspects of that milestone, the chain mail represents the complex journey of life and the colored beads tell a notion of a rainbow after every storm. 

fig 1 - Rozani. B., (2019) Ikrwala neck piece.

Iphoco: umfana neckpiece.

This is a necklace made out of silver and blue turquoise glass beads (see fig 1). The neckpiece is manufactured with a traditional stringing of beads and the use of chain mail techniques (see fig 2). The design process derives from the milestone (Umfana) (Iphoco) is a neckpiece that is worn by umfana. I wanted to create a replica of the (Iphoco) incorporating silver to attempt to give the piece value. This piece of jewellery shows the glamour of the Umfana lifestyle.

fig 1 - Rozani. B., (2019) Iphoco neck piece.

fig 2 - Rozani. B., (2019) Iphoco (chain mail) chain.

Isabhokhwe, (whip) bracelet.

This is a bracelet made of silver. The bracelet is manufactured with the use of chain mail technique (see fig 1). This is a design that derives from the milestone (Inkwenkwe). On the notion of a boy at a stage where he has to look after his father’s livestock, he needs a tool to fulfill that task, and a whip is the tool a boy use to look after livestock. The design process evolved to create a bracelet that address the aspects of the boys' milestone, the intricate chain mail design (see fig 1) represent the carefree spirit of a boy and also a big responsibility he has.

Fig 1 - Rozani. B., (2019) Isabhokhwe (whip) Bracelet.

Idayimani, headband for Unomgcan

This is a headband made out of silver and leather. The headband is manufactured with the use of chain mail technique and a pattern pierced plate. This was an attempt to create a piece of jewellery that is an indicator of status (see fig 1) for the milestone (Unomgcana). I designed and created a piece of jewellery that addresses the aspects of coded information, meaning jewellery can be employed to make the wearer different from their neighbors or the same. The symbols and patterns (See fig 2) used to convey a specific message from the wearer to their neighbors. The headband dictates the status of the wearer.  I have incorporated these symbols and patterns to design a headband (see fig 3) I wanted to design and sketch in telling the story of a man who wants to distinguish his social status in the environment he lives in. This is the Xhosa bling Idayimani (headband) (see figure 4).

Figure 1: Xhosa Idayimani. (headband) Figure 2 - Xhosa symbols and patterns. Figure 3 - Rozani B., (2019) drawing of my design process.   Figure 4 - Rozani. B., (2019) Modern Xhosa Idayimani.

indlalifa: Inkulu.

This is a necklace made out of silver. The neckpiece is manufactured with the use of high-end jewellery techniques. This was an attempt to depict the Xhosa story of portable wealth. I wanted to create a piece of jewellery that address the aspects of inheritance, on the milestone (Inkulu) the pendant on this neckpiece represents the cow horns and a Xhosa hut (see fig 1). On the notion of an Inkulu as the inheritor, I wanted to show the wealth as in terms of the old times.

My design process thoroughly looked at the things that are considered inheritance in the Xhosa society. The wealth is the homestead, the meal fields, and the livestock, so specifically looked for inspiration in two things, the homestead and livestock and I came up with a pendant design, the pendant I have designed and manufactured represent the true portable wealth of any Xhosa Inkulu. 

In the Xhosa culture, Inkulu is the first-born son, the one eligible for inheritance. The inheritor is fortunate to inherit the homestead (see fig 2) and the livestock (see fig 3) of his family wealth. Of which could be converted into goods, exchange of livestock for vegetables and paying lobola including other services should a need arise in the society. I wanted to manufacture a piece of jewellery that socially communicates that when worn by a person. I looked at the cow horns (see fig 3) and the hut (see fig 2).

Figure 1 - Rozani, B., (2019) Inkulu neckpiece.

Figure 2 - Linnegar, T., (2000)  A traditional Xhosa hut (Uronta)

 

 Figure 3 – Naude, D., (2010) Inkomo (Xhosa bull)

Introduction.

This is an introduction to the jewellery I will be making.

As a Xhosa man, I am fully aware that my personal background has influenced every aspect of my life. I grew up in a Xhosa culture, I feel that is my luck and I see no limitation. I grew up in a period where culture and tradition was the main influence in the Xhosa societies. Within the context of my jewellery, I will present the functions of my work as indicators of status, Xhosa patterns, symbols, and spiritual meditation, in order to underline the hidden codes and messages that are in the Xhosa beaded jewellery. I have decided to manufacture pieces of jewellery that are indicators of status on the anthropology of a Xhosa man. This body of work will focus on designing pieces Xhosa bling jewellery that are derived from Xhosa beaded jewellery.