Conclusion chapter 2.

These are artists that were researched in this chapter, Mbali creations, Graff, Jacob &Co., and Dylon Whyte. There are a few things that interested me from their artistry. The reasons to choose these artists was due to the look I had determined to achieve for my Xhosa bling jewellery. The unique interpretation of value and the technical aspects that they apply in their work. The choices of the end result and the impact of the end result strongly coincided with my research objective.

Art jewellery:

The concept of art jewellery is used without hesitation, though in the US. In Susan Grant Lewin’s view’…its most salient feature is its involvement with the ideas of art: vision, intellect, and concept. In fact, it is more about art than bout jewellery”. According to Strauss in her book: Ornament of art, where she is showcasing Hele Druitt’s collection jewellery, thinks jewellery is art; it is ‘another art form” (Straus.C., 2007). Regarding art jewellery, I am mostly looking at how jewellery is used as an art form, the way the image creates a sense of movement. It is for this reason that I have chosen to view Rene Lalique Art Nouveau Galalith, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, (see fig 1). What has interested me most is how much  detail can be applied in a piece of art, stationery movement, 

Lalique, R., circa 1899-1901) Art Nouveau galalith, enamel and pearl pendant necklace, 

Studio jewellery:

According to Game, A. and Gore, E., 1998. “It is jewellery that is produced by individuals, working in their own studios, usually alone, at most one or two assistants, who deliberately control every aspect of producing a piece of jewellery from original idea to finished work” Online & on-trend jewellery studio jewellery. (Game, A. and Gore, E., 1998)

                                         

Fig 1 - Sterling silver rings and earrings: studio jewellery [ONLINE]

                               

Research jewellery:

It can be explained as a way to describe the artistic process. In the worlds of Italian art historian Maria Cristina Bergestio, research jewellery reaches:”... from research into forms and materials, onward to conceptual, philosophical reflections’. The idea of research jewellery is significant within the context of artistic research; the notion suffers from obscurity because it is mainly used in Italy. (Bergestio. M., 2006)

Wilson. S,. (2018)  two pendants, - Precious Metal Recovery from Electronic Waste,

 

Spiritual mediation.

According to Bruce Metcalf, 2008) “for as long as we all know jewellery has been associated with spiritual and the supernatural, thus appearing to offer magical power and protection to the wearer and to summarizing the relation between God and the wearer, which also served as constant reminder of one’s faith (see fig 1) most of these appear in every culture” The cross is a symbol of faith used by people who are Christians, (Metcalf, 1998)

Figure 1. black and gold tribal pendant.

Amaso are grayish beads that are believed to chase evil spirits away, in the Xhosa culture young children were made a necklace of these beads, the necklace is a condensed symbol (see fig 2) of his or her protection, for the child at a part of his or her life that is believed to be very a fragile stage.

Figure 2 - a string of beads called (Amaso).

Indicator of status.

According to Bruce Metcalf, (2008) “the most important subtext of jewelry is to mark social identity and status. Adornments are to either distinguish or merge the wearer with social groupings. The coded information that societies evolve for jewelry can be employed to make the wearer different from his neighbors or the same". Jewellery often represents a person’s status, both in today’s society and throughout history. People of higher social status or wealth often own and wear jewellery that is more valuable. They may own more jewellery than others may. I have incorporated these symbols and patterns to design a headband. I sketched (see figure 1) designed in telling the story of a man who wants to distinguish his social status in the environment he lives in. This is the Xhosa bling Idayimani (headband) (see figure 1 ). (Metcalf, (2008)

Figure 1 - Rozani B., (2019) drawing of  my design process.

Figure 3 - Rozani. B., Modern Xhosa Idayimani.

Symbolism.

According to den Besten (2011, p.12) “jewellery whether fine, costly, traditional or avant-garde, can be read as a symbol, precisely because it is brought into the public domain.”Symbolism is an indirect suggestion “to express ones ideas, social situation and identity.” (den Besten, 2011, p. 12) It is a fixed concept and a meaningful association with something else that generally refers to cultural or public interpretation of a sign. Gauding (2009, p. 8) also suggests a symbol not only represents something else but also “suggests a hiding or veiling of meaning.”

According to Mountz jewelers (2019), “Jewellery provides people with a physical symbol to represent meaning, ideas, values and rituals. Those symbols can change the way the owner feels while wearing the jewelry. A symbol of protection might make the wearer feel strong and safe, Jade, called the Stone of Heaven, play a significant role in the Chinese culture. Jade represents the balance of yin and yang”(see fig 1). (Mountz jewelers.2019)

Figure 1 – jade a symbol of balance.

Research jewellery:

It can be explained as a way to describe the artistic process. In the worlds of Italian art historian Maria Cristina Bergestio, research jewellery reaches:”... from research into forms and materials, onwards to conceptual, philosophical reflections’. The idea of research jewellery is significant within the context of artistic research; the notion suffers from obscurity because it is mainly used in Italy. 

According to the Journal of jewellery research (2017) "The journal is a peer-reviewed online and open-access publication that focuses on the design, theory, and praxis of jewellery studies. It promotes jewellery research into materials, techniques, technologies, methodologies, processes, concepts and aesthetics. The journal provides an interdisciplinary arena for the discussion and analysis of jewellery spanning the conceptual, practical, pedagogical and cultural across both contemporary and historical time frames to consider jewellery within the wealth of creative methodologies at the intersections between jewellery and other disciplines".(Journal of jewellery research (2017)

Cheung. L,. (2017)  - Pearl Necklace

These are four contemporary jewellery trends:

This is the list of contemporary jewellery trends, 

• Studio jewellery:
• Art jewellery:
• Research jewellery:
• Author jewellery:

Narrative Jewellery.

 

“Narrative” is the practice or art of telling stories. (Pearsall, 2002, p. 948) Narrative jewellery is “jewellery that communicates” Quickenden, K., (2000). It refers to the meaning, context or story behind a piece of jewellery (see fig 1) a fan brooch by Singured Bronger that represent a narrative that is significant to the environment created. Narrative jewellery is “engaging” as it offers the audience or wearer the opportunity to interact with the piece of jewellery and to “bring their own imagination and interpretation to bear on a piece.” (Olver, 2002, p. 119) Typically, the maker intends to provoke an emotional response from the wearer or observers. Quickenden, K., (2000).

Figure 1 – Bronger S,. (1998), Fan Brooch.

Introduction.

In chapter two I will discuss an artist, one contemporary jeweler, and two jewellery high-end houses. I have chosen these jewelers because their work relates to different aspects of the jewellery I want to create. one aspect is to create timeless pieces of jewellery and the other is to create jewellery that aspire to inspire people. I now fully understand that jewellery has to play a significant role to the wearer as it does to the maker. I would love to create pieces of jewellery that inspire me more than they inspire the wearer.

Below are the artists whose work I have chosen to talk about:

·        Mbali creations.

·       J&Co

·       Dylon Whyte.

Graff.

Mbali Creations.

Mbali has worked in a clothing manufacturing company where she worked closely with senior pattern makers. She has been trained and has skills in pattern making, garment construction, trend research, creative designing, and storyboard compiling. Her clothing is made of traditional fabric called ibhayi, she works with the traditional Xhosa line patterns when she designed a Xhosa man’s skirt (see fig 1 and fig 2) and she incorporates beadwork in her garments to create other patterns, she also creates jewellery that is of cultural and traditional aspects using her creativity in terms of the colour combinations (see fig 5) without losing the meaning of those pieces of jewellery, she is sticking to the cultural significance of those pieces of jewellery (see fig 4). Her jewellery is mostly traditional adornments where she uses turquoise blue, red and white where she made beaded anklets (see fig 5) She sells her garments and jewellery through a company called The wild coast trading co. it is a sales-based company in cape town.

  

Figure 1 - Xhosa man’s wrap skirt. [ONLINE]

Figure 2 - Traditional ibhayi man’s top. [ONLINE] 

Figure 3 - beaded Xhosa vest. [ONLINE]

Figure 4 - Idayimani headband for man. [ONLINE]

Figure 5 - Xhosa beaded anklets for man.[ONLINE]

Graff.

Graff diamonds is a house of luxury high jewellery; they have stores around the world. Graff uses many colored diamonds in their jewellery.

 

Figure 1 - Two vibrant pear shape sapphires are suspended from graceful loops of pure white round diamonds and invisibly set baguette-cut sapphires in these seamlessly swirling art-inspired earrings.

My fascination with colored diamonds, paying attention to detail has won my admiration of the style and the type of jewellery Graff creates. Inspiration is someone or something that gives your ideas for doing something, Graff inspiration derives from people and things, Inspired by Classic Small Earrings made by the artist Twombly, Graff manufactured these swirling-inspired earrings (see fig 1). My focus will be on the values that Graff apply. The way they combine the colored diamonds and in their timepieces. These aspects will lead me to creating my own Xhosa Bling that will command high prices, with an expensive candy look.

Figure 2 - The-Graff-Multicolored-Diamond-Secret-Watch_GW9642-1-1400x2000.

Combining exquisite diamond artistry with exemplary watchmaking expertise, this secret timepiece showcases more than 89 carats of the finest colored diamonds, including yellows, pinks, blues, oranges and greys, and a multitude of diamond cuts. Hidden beneath this brilliant bloom is a diminutive pink diamond pave dial, which reveals itself when the lid is lifted gently upwards. (See fig 2)

Dylon Whyte.

The third person I Am am going to talk about is Dylon Whyte. He is a chainmail artist, born in Toronto Canada. His influence by creative environments started even before he knew who he was. Chainmail was created in the middle ages as Armour that used small metal rings joined together to create protective clothing for use in the battle (see fig 1). He grew up in a childhood filled with colors, smells, textures and the experiences raised by a fine artist. For him, this meant discovering the innovation of art and applying it to his own life. He found a new outlet in making jewellery out of chainmail (see fig 2).

Figure 1 - Dylan Whyte, the chainmail artist. Figure 2 - Different pattern chains that he designs. According to him, "weaving the chain is a relaxing experience that borders on Zen meditation and aspects of soothing pattern recognition. You tend to pick up a great deal of discipline and patience along the way". (Whyte 2016) has his focus on making chain patterns with applied art. In his work, I look at the variety of patterns, styles (see fig 2). I have learned that there is no boundary in terms of being creative. This type of work inspires me to create a version of my Xhosa bling jewellery.

J&Co

The second jeweler I am going to talk about, that influences me is Jacob Arabo is a Bukharin-American jeweller. His work is well known in the entertainment industry for its unique jewelry designs and he is mentioned in several hip-hop songs as "Jacob the Jeweller" or just "Jacob. His timepieces and jewelry have so much influence in hip hop culture.

Figure 1 - J&CO Man's perfect fit Bracelet.

Figure 2 - J&CO Billionaire timepiece.

Figure 4 – J&Co Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Arlequino.

The look to achieve for Xhosa bling Jewellery is inspired by J&Co style of Incorporating different materials as seen on this 2.06ct. Round Cut White Diamonds on Braided Black Brummel Rope. 18K Rose Gold (See fig 1). Jacob uses many precious stones, a fascination of mine, like the Billionaire watch (see fig 2) I want to use color in my jewellery, and looking at the way J&Co does their color combination as done in this Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Arlequino (fig 3) that inspires me to take the Xhosa bling to another level.

Mbali creations.

Mbali has worked in a clothing manufacturing company where she worked closely with senior pattern makers. She has been trained and have skills in pattern making, garment construction, trend research, creative designing, and storyboard compiling. Her clothing is made of traditional fabric called ibhayi, she works with the traditional Xhosa line patterns when she designed a Xhosa man’s skirt (see fig 1 and 2) and she incorporates beadwork in her garments to create other patterns, she also creates jewellery that is of cultural and traditional aspects using her creativity in terms of the color combinations without losing the meaning of those pieces of jewellery, she is sticking to the cultural significance of those pieces of jewellery (see fig 4). Her jewellery is mostly traditional adornments where she uses traditional Xhosa colors, turquoise blue, red and white where she made beaded anklets (see fig 5) She sells her garments and jewellery through a company called the wild coast trading co. based in cape town.

  

figure 1 - man's wrap skirt.

figure 2 - man's top.

figure 3 - man's vest.

figure 4 - Idayimani (man's headband).

figure 5 - man' anklets.

Artist Dylon Whyte

Chainmail:

Figure 1 - this dylon Whyte, the chainmail artist.

Figure 2 - this is an image of different pattern chains that he designs.

Figure 3 - chainmail pattern pendant with a gemstone. 

Dylon Whyte is a chainmail artist, born in Toronto Canada. His influence by creative environments started even before he knew who he was. Chainmail was created in the middle ages as amour that used small metal rings joined together to create protective clothing for use in the battle. His childhood was filled with colours, smells, textures and the experiences of being raised by a fine artist. For him, this meant discovering the innovation of art and applying it to his own life. He found a new outlet in making jewellery out of chainmail. according to (Whyte 2016) "weaving the chain is a relaxing experience that borders on zen meditation and aspects of soothing pattern recognition. you tend to pick up a great deal of discipline and patience along the way". Dylon is focussed on making chain patterns with applied art. In his work, I look at the variety of patterns, styles and I have learned that there is no boundary in terms of being creative. This type of work inspires me to create a version of my Xhosa bling jewellery.

http://www.artofchainmail.com/about-me.html

Graff.

https://babalorozani.blogspot.com/2019/09/graff.html
Graff:

Figure 1 - Two vibrant pear shape sapphires are suspended from graceful loops of pure white round diamonds and invisibly set baguette cut sapphires in these seamlessly swirling art-inspired earrings.

Graff diamonds is a house of luxury high-end jewellery; they have stores around the world. Graff uses many coloured diamonds in their jewellery. My fascination with coloured diamonds, paying attention to detail has won my admiration of the style and the type of jewellery Graff creates. My focus will be on the values that Graff apply when creating their jewellery, the way they combine the coloured diamonds in a piece of jewellery and their timepieces. These aspects will lead me to creating my own Xhosa Bling that will command high prices, with an expensive candy look.

figure 2 - This is The-Graff-Multi-coloured-Diamond-Secret-Watch_GW9642-1-1400x2000.

Combining exquisite diamond artistry with exemplary watchmaking expertise, this secret timepiece showcases more than 89 carats of the finest coloured diamonds, including yellows, pinks, blues, oranges and greys, and a multitude of diamond cuts. Hidden beneath this brilliant bloom is a diminutive pink diamond pavé dial, which is revealed when the lid is lifted gently upwards.(see fig 2)



https://www.graff.com/house/graff/
https://www.graff.com/watches/watch/multi-coloured-diamond-secret-watch/

Jacob "the jeweller"

https://babalorozani.blogspot.com/2019/09/jacob-jeweller.html

J&CO. In three words, the way I see it, we are about fun, lifestyle and we are unique.

Figure 1 - J&CO Man's perfect fit Bracelet.

Figure 2 - J&CO engagement ring.

Figure 3 - J&CO DNA Ladder bracelet.

Figure 4 - J&CO Billionaire timepiece.

Jacob Arabo is a Bukharin-American jeweler. well known in the entertainment industry for his unique jewelry designs and is mentioned in several hip-hop songs as "Jacob the Jeweller" or just "Jacob. "Take her to the diamond district, introduce her to Jacob / Tell her if she like me she should keep me Icey." - "Get in My Car" by 50 Cent. His timepieces and jewelry have so much influence in hip hop culture. According to (wolf 2018)"Hip-hop jewelry (and hip-hop generally) have changed since then—as the artists have gotten weirder, so have the diamonds. Rappers like Lil Yachty, Lil Uzi Vert, the Migos, and even Drake aren’t satisfied with simply collecting carats like Pokémon. Drake’s chains are shaped like the Stone Island logo or his OVO owl, Lil Uzi Vert has a Marilyn Manson pendant, and Migos member Quavo has a diamond-encrusted Yoda hanging around his neck". This the look that I would like my Xhosa bling jewelry to have. The use of different color metals to enhance contrast is a look that inspires creativity in me(see fig 3). Jacob uses a lot of precious stones, in an interview with (world tempts 2015) he says” the inspiration I get and the broad collection is because I want to satisfy a student in college with a ghost watch right up to the moment when they later become a billionaire with a billionaire watch"(see fig 4)My Xhosa bling jewelry will be intended to inspire a Xhosa man from his childhood right up to manhood.

https://www.gq.com/story/jacob-the-jeweler-store-reopening

https://www.jacobandco.com/content/jacob-co-interview-jacob-arabo

Xhosa social and cultural issues influencing contemporary jewellery.

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA is a South African knitwear brand founded in 2012 by Laduma Ngxokolo. This was with desire to explore knitwear design solutions that would be suitable for amakrwala (Xhosa initiates). His initial vision was to create a modern Xhosa-inspired knitwear collection that would be suitable for this market. As a person who has undergone the process, Laduma felt that he had to develop premium knitwear that celebrates traditional Xhosa aesthetics.

laduma has taken something that traditionally belongs to a clan in the Xhosa community and that part of himself and created a brand that relates not only to ikwrala but everybody.